2.12.2014

A Seafood-Laden Dinner At Row 34

Shrimp slider with chipotle and bread and butter pickles at Row 34
Shrimp slider with chipotle and bread and butter pickles

Black bass ceviche at Row 34
Black bass ceviche

Tuna crudo with black garlic and lemon at Row 34
Tuna crudo with black garlic and lemon

Beer pairings at Row 34
Beer pairings

Smoked and cured board at Row 34
Smoked & Cured Board
This one has an assortment of smoked salmon, smoked mussel salad, smoked trout,
smoked shrimp salad, smoked scallops, seafood head cheese, and more
with grilled bread, pickled onion, and creme fraiche

Mini serving of housemade bucatini with clams, garlic crumbs, broccoli rabe, and bacon at Row 34
Mini serving of housemade bucatini with clams, garlic crumbs, broccoli rabe, and bacon

Fried chicken thighs with biscuits and gravy at Row 34
Fried chicken thighs with biscuits and gravy

Pan-roasted tilefish at Row 34
Pan-roasted tilefish 

Carrot side at Row 34Cauliflower side at Row 34

Butterscotch pudding at Row 34
Butterscotch pudding

Apple hand pies at Row 34
Apple hand pies

Row 34, a new addition to the Fort Point area from the team behind Island Creek Oyster Bar, is billed as a "working man's oyster bar" -- a neighborhood-focused restaurant and bar that celebrates New England seafood. The open, industrial-looking space seems made for the location, a look the design team achieved by working with the existing architecture and materials.

The menu, created by Chef Jeremy Sewall, is heavy on seafood and ranges from raw bar items to smoked and cured selections to a daily whole fish offering. The shrimp sliders are just the right snack to kick off a meal with, and tuna crudo impresses with its fresh flavors. The smoked and cured board is a thing of beauty -- in both appearance and variety of flavors and textures. Housemade bucatini with mini clams, crunchy bacon, and broccoli rabe is garlicky and both elegant and comforting. A side dish of carrots is surprisingly wonderful -- even to someone who doesn't usually get all excited about carrots. The tender, sweet root vegetables arrive dressed with pistou and sitting on creamy herbed yogurt. A mini Mason jar presents a luscious, silky butterscotch pudding for dessert. And the team at Row 34 gives just as much attention to the beer program and wine list as they do to the food, with American craft beers and high acid white wines that complement oysters among the offerings.

Row 34 is definitely worth a stop if you're in the neighborhood. I know I'll be back.

What's your favorite seafood dish?

This dinner was complimentary, but as always, all opinions are my own.

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